BACKYARDS ON THE BAY  A yard care guide for the coastal homeowner

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Section 6: How to create or enhance a buffer of native plants between your yard and the Bay

A buffer of native plants is a benefit to the homeowner and the Bay’s water and coastal areas. Once established, natural buffers save you time and money on maintenance by eliminating the need to mow, water and fertilize.

Benefits of Coastal Buffers

Pollution reduction:

A buffer zone of native coastal plants provides a natural filter to remove pollutants such as fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and sediments that can run off into the Bay. An area of native plants as narrow as 15 feet can prevent fertilizer runoff from entering the Bay and can remove up to 50 percent of the soil and sand in runoff. Buffers help keep our Bay clean and clear.

Erosion and Flood Control:

The deep roots of native coastal plants help prevent erosion of valuable topsoil and prevent storm damage from wind, flooding and salt spray. Soil erosion impacts the Bay’s water quality and coastal habitats such as eelgrass beds and salt marshes.

Wildlife Habitat:

A buffer of native plants provides a home for wading shorebirds such as egrets as well as many other birds and animals. A buffer area maintained in its natural state also may prevent unwanted species such as non-migratory Canada geese and mute swans from feeding on your lawn.

Aesthetic quality:

A buffer zone of native coastal plants enhances the beauty of your yard and the surrounding shoreline. A well-planned buffer can increase your property value as well.

Reduced maintenance:

By reducing the size of your lawn and creating a buffer of native coastal plants, you will save time and money otherwise spent to maintain a "manicured" yard. Native plants do not require the intensive watering, fertilizing or mowing of a lawn.

Now that you know the many benefits of a buffer of native plants the next question to answer is how do you create a buffer between your backyard and the shoreline? There are several factors you should consider before planting a buffer.

  • How much of your yard has an existing buffer of native plants?
  • If you have a buffer, approximately how wide is it?
  • What types of plants are growing in your buffer?
  • Are you creating a new buffer or enhancing an existing natural area?
  • Will you be doing the work yourself or hiring a commercial landscaper?
  • Will the work be done all at once or gradually?

A simple first step is to establish a "no mow zone" along the shoreline. The edge of the no-mow area can be mowed in a curved fashion to create a more visually interesting landscape. Dependent on how close to the shoreline or the marsh you mow, many salt marsh or upland buffer plants will come back naturally without planting, such as seaside goldenrod, switch grass or bayberry.

As a follow-up step, the no-mow area can be planted with shrubs and salt tolerant perennials. If you decide to take the next step, a plan is essential. A plan will help you visualize how the buffer is incorporated into your landscaping plan. Review the following steps to assist you in determining how and where you would like to create a natural buffer. Remember that plants mature to different heights and widths. If preserving a view of the shoreline always consider the mature size of the plants you select.

                   Why Native Plants?

When planting or enhancing a buffer between your yard and the shore, a homeowner should use native plants that can tolerate the sometimes harsh shoreline conditions. These plants might already be growing in your yard or a nearby property. Native New England plant species have evolved to the soil and climate conditions of our region ­ making them hardy and saving homeowners the cost of replanting or expensive maintenance.

Steps to take when planning a coastal buffer

1 Determine how you will use your property:
  • Do you need foot access to the Bay?
  • Do you need a play area for children?
  • Do you want to minimize the amount of time and money you spend on maintaining your yard?
  • Do you want a vegetable or flower garden?

2 Analyze your yard:
  • Determine your yard’s exposure to sun, wind and salt spray.
  • Determine your soil type and pH (for information contact URI’s Cooperative Extension).
  • Identify the existing type of landscaping that you have along the shoreline; lawn, buffer of coastal plants, non-native shrubs.
  • Determine what type of shoreline you live along: salt marsh, pebbly beach, barrier beach, rocky shore or manmade shoreline (e.g. seawall, riprap).
  • Determine the upland edge of the salt marsh. Plants such as high tide bush, Phragmites and seaside goldenrod indicate the upper edge of the salt marsh. Review the salt marsh plant list and diagram in Section 1.
  • Examine drainage patterns and identify streams or freshwater wetlands on your property.
  • Consider any existing plants to keep and list factors that will affect the selection of new plants (i.e. sun, shade, wind, salt spray and soil moisture).
  • Determine if there are any invasive plants in your yard (see description of invasive plants in Appendix 3).
  • Determine if your property has a steep slope, any existing erosion problems such as gullies or undercut banks. Call Coastal Resources Management Council (CRMC) to estimate the rate of shoreline loss due to erosion in your area.

3 Prepare a plan for your buffer and the rest of the yard:
  • For a base map, use a photocopy of the survey completed for your mortgage.
  • Sketch a rough site plan of your yard, the existing shrubs and trees.
  • Determine how large a buffer you want to establish; the larger the buffer the less maintenance and the better the wildlife habitat.
  • Determine if you need access to the shoreline. A winding footpath is preferred to "straight shot" access points through a buffer zone. Access points should be as narrow as possible (six feet or less).
  • Minimize turf areas and place gardens and recreation areas away from the waterfront.
  • Redirect stormwater runoff to nonsensitive areas away from the marsh.
  • Determine if a CRMC permit is required prior to conducting work (see Section 7).
  • Call the CRMC at 222-2476 to obtain a Buffer Management Guideline Manual.

Mean High Water:

In Rhode Island, coastal property owners own up to the Mean High Water line. The Mean High Water is the average high tide line (where seaweed and debris creates a line on the shoreline). All land below the Mean High Water line is public trust land and is owned by the state of Rhode Island. The public is allowed lateral access along the shoreline.

4 Add your selected plants to the plan:
  • Determine what type of plants would be suitable for your yard, by reviewing the plant list in Appendix 2 that highlights which plants grow well in different shoreline conditions.
  • Look at nearby natural areas to determine the types of native plants that are suitable for your shoreline.

A note of caution: non-native and invasive plants such as bittersweet and multiflora rose have colonized many coastal areas. These plants can shade and outcompete native plants and even kill mature shrubs and trees (see invasive plant list in Appendix 3).

  • Sketch where you want trees, shrubs, or flowering plants (see site plan example in Appendix 4).
  • Use a diversity of native plants to reduce the potential for insect and disease damage and to create an ideal habitat for wildlife. Use a combination of shrubs, perennials, groundcovers and scattered trees to create a more diversified habitat and to improve the filtering capability of the buffer.

5 Begin Digging:
  • Prepare soil by adding compost.
  • Plant in the spring or fall when the plants will not be as stressed by summer heat or drought.
  • Follow the proper planting techniques to establish healthy plants (see planting guidelines in Appendix 4).
  • If working with a commercial landscaper ensure he/she is familiar with your plans.

6 Maintain:
  • Maintenance includes proper irrigation, composting and mulching and using the least toxic methods of weed and pest control.
  • Most shrubs appropriate for the coastal zone will not need watering or fertilizer once they are established.

GRASSLANDS: When grass is more than just a lawn

Historically, native grasslands were found adjacent to many coastal areas. Increased development, suburbanization and the loss of farms have all contributed to a loss of grassland habitats in this century. Today, grassland species of birds, plants and insects top the list of our region’s endangered or threatened species. Northern harriers, grasshopper sparrows, bobolinks and fritillary butterflies are all species that are continuing to lose ground because of the loss of grasslands.

If you own a large piece of property along the coast, managing even some of your property as a grassland can help ensure these species have a fighting chance for survival as well as enhancing your property’s aesthetic appeal. In order for natural grasslands to serve as habitat for birds and other animals, they must not be mowed on a regular basis. Many of the native grassland species are beautiful, showy plants that can be maintained with a minimal amount of effort and expense. Since they are native to the region, they have a competitive edge and should not require much in the way of resources to sustain them.

A "mini-grassland" can be established adjacent to a coastal buffer by planting warm-season grasses (see plant list in Appendix 2). These warm season grasses are drought resistant, winter hardy and adapted to sandy soil. These grasses provide ideal habitat for ground-nesting birds. The grassland does not have to be mowed regularly. Mowing should occur at a maximum of one time a year, late in the season (August or later) after the grasses have set seed and any birds have nested. For more information about how to establish a grassland, contact the Natural Resources Conservation Service at 828-1300.

| TABLE OF CONTENTS | INTRODUCTION | SECTION 1 | SECTION 2 | SECTION 3 | SECTION 4 | SECTION 5 | SECTION 6 |
SECTION 7 | APPENDIX 1 | APPENDIX 2 | APPENDIX 3 | APPENDIX 4 | APPENDIX 5 | APPENDIX 6 | APPENDIX 7 |